The icemaker is not producing ice or producing very little. Diagnosis depends on the ejector arm position (clock position) when the icemaker is stalled. Common causes include no water supply, frozen fill tubes, faulty modular head, thermostat issues, or water pressure problems.
| Possible Cause | How to Fix |
|---|---|
| Freezer not cold enough | Check freezer temperature; press COLDER |
| Ice maker system shut off | Press ICE key to enable |
| No water line connected | Contact plumber to run water line |
| Jammed ice cube | Remove jammed cube from mold |
| Ice bucket out of position | Ensure bucket depresses icemaker/drawer switch |
| Icemaker/drawer switch faulty | Check resistance with switch depressed; replace if open |
| Frozen fill tube | Check/replace water valve; check/replace fill tube heater |
| Kinked water line | Un-kink or replace water line between valve and fill tube |
| Clogged screen in water valve | Replace water valve |
| Low water pressure (<20 psi) | Increase supply pressure. Test: jump T & H ports 10 sec, catch water = 130cc |
| High water pressure (>120 psi) | Decrease supply pressure |
| Open heater circuit (L & H = 72 ohms) | Replace mold and heater assembly |
| Thermostat out of calibration | Replace thermostat (apply fresh alumilastic) |
| Faulty modular head (no run when T & H jumped) | Replace icemaker modular head |
| Ice level arm locked up | Lower ice level arm |
| Broken cam follower | Replace icemaker modular head |
20-120 psi130cc72 ohms20-26 in/lbs torqueAs an affiliate, we may earn from qualifying purchases. This doesn't affect our recommendations.
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Check that the ICE button is enabled, the freezer is cold enough, and water supply is connected with 20-120 psi pressure. The ejector arm position helps pinpoint the specific failure.
Jump between the T and H ports on the icemaker module for 10 seconds. Remove the jumper and catch the water — you should get approximately 130cc.